I asked at the front desk of the Doubletree Hotel -- where I commandeered a table and electrical outlet in a hallway in order to make about three hours worth of phone calls -- for a recommendation on a restaurant for lunch. "A classic, old Modesto restaurant that would be a shame to miss while I'm in town."

They sent me two blocks away to Galletto. www.galletto.biz A restaurant with a modern Italian menu set in a converted old bank.

I was impressed. Especially by the pumpkin cheesecake.