Here I am at the historic Gellert Bath in Budapest. This predecessor to modern day water parks truly is a Turkish Bath. It was built in 1912 on the site of baths built in the 16th century following the Turkish invasion of Hungary. Located over natural hot springs, the water is believed to have healing power. Apparently when you become over 75 years old in Budapest the highlight of your day is swimming in the co-ed pool.
The male-only portion of the Bath is most notable for the "loincloth" (think miniature apron) they give you to wear. A standard issue hospital gown seems like a luxurious robe by comparison. Fortunately about ten percent of the men, including this modest American, ignore tradition and wear regular bathing suits.
Dinner last night was at the Owl's Castle Restaurant which, for Budapest, makes quite a feminist statement by being entirely run by women. They are proud of the fact that women not only cook and serve the food, they even shop for it! Here's how they describe themselves in their advertisement: "Guest are to learn the culinary treks of women in this peculiar atmosphere."
It seemed like a normal Hungarian restaurant to me. Though I've never been accused of being a "lite" eater, my pork cutlets and egg dumplings seemed pretty heavy -- which is Hungarian cuisine's claim to fame..
Today's three-hour train ride to Vienna included a nice surprise. For lunch I was expecting to visit an Amtrak-style lounge car for a sandwich wrapped in plastic and some crisps (as the British and Kelly Presta call potato chips). Instead the train had a full-on dining car where I enjoyed a freshly cooked, excellent lunch.
On the train I was talking to two Americans about my trip. They wanted to know if I'm staying at hostels. That made me feel young!
And here's something you don't see everyday: a woman walking through the train carrying a bow and arrows. Hope she doesn't plan to fly anytime soon.
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