I'll Take a Double

Last night I attended a play, "My Zinc Bed" by David Hare at the Theater on the Bay in Camps Bay. It stars a South African soap opera star, Collin Moss. Camps Bay is a beach resort town abut 15 minutes away from where I'm staying in Cape Town.

The play is about an alcoholic and his attempts to stay sober while in AA. Ironically, this theater lets you bring drinks to your seat. At intermission everyone made a beeline for the bar. I enjoyed my gin and tonic during the second act. And I made a real effort to keep the ice in my glass from clinking.

Speaking of sober, today I visited Robben Island where political prisoners, including Nelson Mandela, where held during their fight against apartheid. It's seven miles off the coast of Cape Town. Mandela was confined for 27 years and spent 18 of them on Robben Island. It's now a museum with former political prisoners conducting the tours. I asked my guide why, after being held prisoner there, he chooses to return each day to conduct tours. With a big smile he said he does feel conflicted by it, but what happened in the past did in fact happen and it's important to focus on the future while making sure the past is never forgotten.

But old sentiments about apartheid lay just below the surface in South Africa. Without any prompting, my white cab driver made a big deal over the fact that once Mandela was moved from Robben Island to another prison they kept him in a house with a pool. "They didn't tell you that, did they?" he asked. My response that the amenities don't matter as long as you're still locked up seemed to fall on deaf ears.

Tomorrow begins what potentially will be the most interesting (and grueling) portion of my trip. I'm up early for a 7:30 a.m. flight to Johannesburg and continuing on to Hoedspruit near Kruger National Park. I'll be "on safari" at the Elephant Plains Game Lodge -- staying there Sunday and Monday nights.

Then on Tuesday it's back to Johannesburg for an overnight flight to Frankfurt, Germany (5,900 miles). Arriving Wednesday morning, I have the day to kill (with absolutely no idea what to do in Frankfurt) before catching another overnight flight (5,800 miles) to Rio de Janeiro and arriving Thursday morning.

I don't know what my internet access will be during this adventure, but I'll be blogging as I can.

In the meantime, thanks to Karen Kapler for alerting me to "See Arnold Run" this Sunday night on A&E about Arnold Schwarzenegger and his campaign for Governor. I've set my Tivo over the internet. Karen reports Nora Dunn is being written up for doing a spot on Arianna Huffington in the movie.

Forget What I Wrote

Well it rained this morning in Cape Town. But I really can't complain. I've been traveling for 34 days and this is the second time I've seen rain. I've been pretty lucky before.

Given the weather, I decided to go see a movie. I went to a theater at the Victoria and Albert Waterfront and saw "Yesterday," a South African film that just this week was nominated this week for an Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Picture. That language, by the way, is Zulu. But I relied on the English subtitles. It's about the AIDs epidemic sweeping Africa and Nelson Mandela's Foundation was involved in the production of the movie. As you can imagine South Africans are proud to have one of their own movies nominated.

I also went to the airport today to retrieve my missing bag. I have to fess up. About 10 minutes after writing in my blog that my bag would "show up when it shows up" I couldn't stop obsessing over getting it back. My email to Lufthansa has yet to be answered. The staff at the baggage claim office at the Cape Town airport are so inefficient and clueless it was almost comical. One fellow, Pierre, kept telling me my bag would arrive on Friday if I was "lucky" even though, according to him, the only flight arriving on Friday had already left and my bag wasn't on it. I guess that would be lucky!

In the end I emailed United Airlines and within an hour they had traced my bag and informed me that it HAD arrived in Cape Town Thursday morning and was waiting at the baggage claim office.

So I called baggage claim again and after they insisted my bag still wasn't there I read them the email from United that identified exactly which flight my bag had been on. The baggage claim idiots called me back 30 minutes later with the "good news" my bag had "arrived." And rather than counting on their courier getting it to me I figured I'd be better off going to the airport myself to get it.

Isn't traveling fun?

Cape Town Outdoes Itself

It's hard for me to believe, but the weather in Cape Town today was even more gorgeous than yesterday. It's about 80 degrees with the bluest blue sky I've ever seen.

I took the cable car to the top of Table Mountain today. Sadly, the one cloud in the sky settled on the top of the mountain and you couldn't see a thing. But it was about 20 degrees cooler and very misty in the cloud. The cable car ride up, up, up was pretty cool.

I also took a City Tour this afternoon. Fascinating. Our guide was quite willing to discuss the realities of South Africa's apartheid past. I asked him if much has changed since the end of apartheid. His answer was, "really, not much."

We visited the Sixth District Museum which tells the story of Botha government's clearing "blacks and coloreds" (the government's terms, not mine) from much of central Cape Town in the 50s. Very moving, but to be honest many of the displays look like they could have come from the U.S. South only about 15 years earlier.

Lufthansa has lost one of my two bags. I had pretty much divided my bags into one for clean clothes and one for dirty clothes. Fortunately they've misplaced the one with the dirty clothes. So I'm not too freaked out. I figure it will show up when it shows up. I don't think the people I work with will recognize the new Ted Green when I return.

In To Africa

Cape Town makes a lovely first impression. But you'll have to take my word for it. I haven't figured out how to post photos to my blog from here. Yet!

I'm staying in a cute bed and breakfast in the Waterkant Village high above the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. In one direction you can see the harbor and in the other Table Mountain.

Since my arrival everyone has made it very clear I need to be careful where I go after dark. Fortunately, the area around where I'm staying appears safe and entertaining.

Tomorrow I'm taking a City Tour. Probably going to the beach on Friday. I'm loving this summertime weather. Nice change from Europe.

Another nice change is the cost of things. The Dollar is still relatively strong compared to the Rand. I had a perfectly nice lunch (with two diet cokes) for around ten dollars today. In Europe I couldn't even get out of a Starbucks for that.

Cheers, Renee

My friend and colleague from Woodward & McDowell's Burlingame office, Renee Rose, bought me a couple of martinis last night at Duke's Hotel on St. James Place. Her husband, Harvey, says they are the best martinis in the world. Who am I to argue? They certainly are the best I've ever had.

Later in the evening I saw Andrew Lloyd Weber's new musical "The Woman in White" at the Palace Theater. Unfortunately, I thought it was boring. And most disappointing was the zesty role of Count Fosco, normally played by Michael Crawford, was covered by an understudy. And while I'm complaining -- instead of traditional scenery they use video images broadcast on a screen at the back of the stage. It's completely distracting and annoying. Harrumph.

Interestingly, in New York when a famous actor misses a performance you can get your money back with no questions asked. Not so in London. I didn't consider returning my ticket, but the couple in line in front of me when I went to pick up my ticket were sure getting the run around.

The Academy Award nominations are broadcast live on BBC 4 at 1:30 p.m. today. Not sure if I'll watch or not -- but it sure beats getting up at 5 a.m. to watch them in L.A.

I have the rest of the day in London and then tonight I'm taking a 6,000 mile overnight flight to Cape Town via Frankfurt.

On the way to the Duke's Hotel I passed St. James Palace -- the former residence of Prince Charles. (He moved out to shack up with C.P.B.)

Here's the newly refurbished Palace Theater in the West End where I saw "The Woman in White." Les Mis ran here for years. After it closed they restored it to its Victorian splendor.

Cliff Smith urged me to visit St. Bride's Church on Fleet Street. It was designed by Sir Christopher Wren in the 1670s and is famous for its tiered steeple. In fact a baker across the street used the steeple as the inspiration for a wedding cake for his daughter. And that's why most wedding cakes today are tiered. On the right you can see part of the Reuters Building which has been headquartered on Fleet Street since the 1830s.

The Iceman Cometh

One of my biggest gripes about traveling in Europe is the lack of ice. Most times they'll serve you a drink cold, but with no ice. Sometimes one cube. If you ask for "a lot of ice" they give you three cubes and look at you like you're crazy.

So imagine my delight when I found this self serve ice machine at a movie theater last night in London. I predict a wave of ice-mania is going to sweep the Continent.

I saw "A Very Long Engagement" which was nominated for a Golden Globe for Best Foreign Language Picture. Audrey Tautou is very good in it. Director Jean-Pierre Jeunet also worked with her on "Amelie."

I also had an excellent dinner at Balan's, at their Kensington location. They have four or five locations in London and one in Miami. I had previously eaten at their SoHo location on Old Compton Street. Frankly, I remember that dinner as being a bit of a mess. But last night's roast beef special put to rest the myth that there's no good food in London. And it came with a most excellent Yorkshire Pudding to boot.

Entrances and Exits

Last night I went to the midnight show of the Lido de Paris on the Champs Elysees. High Frommage!

It was a good, but I remember being more impressed with the show at the Moulin Rouge a couple of years ago.

But the Lido certainly puts the word "variety" in it's variety acts -- trained horse, ice skaters, adagio dancer, contortionist on a trapese and a balancing gymnast. All this in between elaborate dance scenes.

At one point I had a little sneezing attack. Not sure if it was the feathers on the costumes or the horse dander.

Unfortunately, the lead singer's voice wasn't very strong. Near the end they played a recording of Edith Piaf -- which didn't help the lead singer's case any. Josephine Baker performed at the Lido back in the day. Now that must have been a performance.

But the lead singer started the show by entering in a blue feathered clamshell that came down from the ceiling. So it wasn't all bad. She also made an appearance from a miniature airplane that landed on stage.

It was tough getting a cab after the show. It was pouring rain and the Metro had shut down -- so lots of folks were competing for the few available cabs. I finally got to one as some others people were getting out of it. But the driver didn't want to go in the direction of my hotel. He said he was trying to go home in the opposite direction because he was tired. I begged and finally told him my Grandfather was in the invasion at Normandy Beach and he should return the favor by letting me in. That worked.

Today I'm off to London via the Eurostar train through the chunnel. Cheerio!

A Day in Paris

This is the North Rose Window of the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1163 and was completed in the 14th Century.

The exterior of the Cathedral looking beautiful after it was recently cleaned.

I was absolutely fascinated by the gargoyles on the Cathedral Notre Dame de Paris. Does this little fellow look like he's saying, "Welcome! Please come into my church"?

This one was dripping water like it had a runny nose.

One didn't make it.

Gargoyles.

Gargoyles

In Paris even the vegetable stands are civilized.

And so are the flower stands.

A cool City Hall. They're campaigning to host the Olympics, as you can see.

My hotel is part of this shopping/office complex.

A big thumbs up for Paris!

Back in Business

"Do your rooms have high-speed internet access?"
"You'll find a cable on the desk in your room."

"Do you have an electricity converter?"
"But of course!"

I'm happily back at a real hotel -- the Hilton Paris La Defense. This appears to be a commercial complex -- something akin to Century City. But there's an underground stop right outside the hotel's door -- so I can easily get to any part of the City of Lights I want to go to.

But first I wanted to post some photos from Florence and Rome. The photo above is me in Rome at St. Peter's Square in front of the Basilica. (Actually technically the Vatican is its own Nation/State surrounded by Rome.) Some other photos follow.

Both of my Lufthansa flights today ended with a really hard landing and the pilot slamming on the brakes. Auchtung! Its like they want to make sure you are clear the plane is on the ground.

I had a great cab ride from the airport. The driver had some really great French jazz music on the radio. It was a perfect welcome. And now that I've had my internet fix, I'm going to go explore Paris.

I'm really happy the light coming through the window at St. Peter's Basilica shows up in this photo.

Even the pros seem impressed by St. Peter's Basilica.

Michaelangelo's "Pieta" is consider the second most beautiful statue in the world. Unfortunately, it doesn't photograph very well because it is protected behind glass in St. Peter's Basilica.

It's a little hard to tell from this photo -- but the hallways at the Vatican go on and on. When you turn the corner it looks like infinity. That's Angus' face on the right -- he lives in Rio.

The Pope greets worshippers in St. Peter's Square from the window on the top floor, second from the right.

The Coliseum in Rome at twighlight.

This is the Ponte Vecchio in Florence -- the only bridge over the Arno River the Nazis didn't blow up on their way out of town.

The is the Duomo -- the Cathedral in Florence.

King Neptune welcomes you to Florence.

Arri ve derci and Bon jour

I'm at the Rome airport awaiting my flights to Paris via Frankfurt.

So my six nights in Italy have come to an end. What a beautiful country. I love the people -- the way they talk with their hands and expressive faces. The food, of course, is excellent.

I enjoyed seeing Venice and Florence but like Rome the best. I like to visit big cities.

Last night I had a chance to see the Spanish Steps and the Tivoli Fountain. Both are very cool. But I imagine it's a little like coming to Los Angeles and being excited about seeing the corner of Hollywood and Vine. What can I say, tourism marketing works.

The nightlife in Rome is quite lively. I'm afraid I was overserved both nights. And I'm paying for it this morning. But I can't wait to get to Paris.

The Holy Must See

Took a great bus tour of Rome and spent this morning at the Vatican. The endless halls filled with antiquities at the Vatican is simply breathtaking. The tour was conducted by a colorful character named Roberto. As Roberto said as we were walking the halls of the Vatican Museum -- We could spend days here. Why not? (I still can't find the key for quote marks on this keyboard.(

The Sistine Chapel lives up to its reputation and is most impressive. However, St. Peter's Basilica is without a doubt the most overwhelming religious building I've ever seen. The scope of the space in indescribable. And Michaelangelo's Pieta is another beautiful piece of sculpture.

The Vatican Snack Shop, by the way, serves excellent pizza by the slice. A very thin and crispy crust. Of course they don't have any ice to go with the Diet Cokes. I guess that would have taken a miracle.

I had a good lunch at Ristorante Giardinaccio near St. Peter's Square. It specializes in dishes from Molisia, a region in southeastern Italy. Peasant food like grilled goat, quail and mutton goulash. Being the adventurous eater that I am, I enjoyed the minestrone soup and ravioli.

There were only 3 of us on the tour -- myself and an older couple from Rio de Janeiro of all places. Angus and Hile actually gave me their phone number in case I need anything when I'm there in a couple of weeks. Hearing that I was coming for Carnival, Angus suggested I bring my drinking boots, whatever that might be.

On the way to the Vatican we drove by the beautiful American Embassy near Barberini Square. The guards outside had their machine guns out. I don't know if that's standard procedure now or if tensions were high because of today's Inaugural.

I got pickpocketed on the Rome subway coming back to my hotel. So there's a big city experience for you. Fortunately, I only lost some cash, not credit cards or ID. I guess I let my guard down for a little bit. Activate the defense shield.

I took lots of cool photos today and hope to post them once I get to my hotel room in Paris tomorrow. It's back to the can-do land of Hilton Hotels, and not a moment too soon.

You Were Expecting Photos?

I'm afraid that technical challenges are going to prevent me from posting any more photos to this blog while I'm in Italy.

In Florence I had access to the internet via my laptop, but my battery run out and the hotel couldn't come up with an adaptor. In Rome I have an adaptor but no internet access with my laptop. So I'm writing this from the hotel's computer in the lobby.

I tried using a public internet store earlier today but ended up getting thrown out. We tried plugging in my computer at one station but couldn't get it to work. So I moved to the computer at the next station and used that for a while. But somehow I hit the sleep button on the keyboard and it went dark. The clerk couldn't understand what happened and when I went to move to a third station he asked me to leave before I ruined another computer!

In spite of all of this I'm loving Italy.

I made it to Florence only a few hours later than planned. I visited the Uffizi Gallery, with the world's most extensive Renaissance art collection. And I also went to the Accademia to see the David statue. Like everyone always says, words alone cannot express the beauty of this sculpture.

In Florence I had a great dinner at a resaurant recommended by Karen Kapler, the White Boar Restaurant near the Ponte Vecchio. Karen is one of those 3D mental Chess Players, and I can only hope that her choice of recommended restaurants isn't a commentary of what she thinks of this blog. Actually I'm not too worried because Karen is pretty direct, as those of us who have had a trip to the chipper know.

By the way, if the punctuation in this entry seems weird it's because I'm using an Italian keyboard and what they have on the keys doesn't always show up the same on the screen. How Italian after all!

I arrived in Rome this morning and am enjoying the hustle and bustle of it. This afternoon I walked around the Coliseum. I'll have some cool photos to share at some point.

Tomorrow it's off to the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel.

My friend, Jim Sivesind aka JeezBob, has caught the bug and has begun his own blog. You can catch it at www.jimsivesind.blogspot.com. He went to the Golden Globes on Sunday night and writes about his encounter with Leonardo di Caprio, amongst others.

But I Have an Itinerary

Today is the date for a one-day strike of the Italian Railways. Today was also supposed to be the day I took the train from Venice to Florence.

I guess "being" on vacation is working -- because I really don't care. Somehow being forced to spend more time in Venice doesn't seem like such a terrible thing.

Hopefully, instead of leaving in the middle of the day I'll leave this evening and still get to Florence tonight. Otherwise I leave at the crack of dawn tomorrow. I do want to get to Florence because I have reservations tomorrow for the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia Gallery (with the David sculpture.)

In the meantime I have unstructured time in Venice.

I've learned this is a quiet time in Venice. Many hotels and restaurants are closed right now. They reopen in time for Carnival at the end of the month.

In some ways I think I was lucky to see it without a whole lot of tourists around. Apparently the lines can get pretty daunting for some of the popular attractions.

I had hoped to go to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum with its great collection of modern art -- but unfortunately, it's closed down for a few weeks for renovations.

The Italian people provide a constant fashion parade and I've noticed they are very fashion forward with their eyewear.

So I'm off to lunch and more exploring this afternoon before testing my luck at the train station this evening.

Ciao!

Here I am on the Loggia dei Cavalli at St. Mark's Basillica overlooking Piazza San Marco. That's the audiotour device hanging around my neck -- not some new fashion statement.

This is a "bus" in Venice. I took one like it from my hotel to the train station. It cost 1/10 the cost of a water taxi.

Please don't feed the skyrats at St. Marks Piazza.

A classic gondolier waving for the camera.

My hotel room is the one with the shutters open. Please talk loudly as you walk by. Everyone else is.

Just masks on sale at this store.

Now that's a picture frame!

The Simple Life

So this is the kind of hotel room 70 Euros gets you in Venice in the off season. So it's not exactly a Hilton -- but the Hotel Do Pozzi's location is great, just steps from the Piazza San Marco.

So, I knew Venice had canals, but I didn't really get it. There really are no streets. You get around on foot or on the canals. It's all very "The Italian Job."

Today was the "big" train trip of my journey -- 7 hours from Vienna to Venice. We left Vienna in the dark and an hour later when the sun came up we were in the mountains. Gorgeous.

When we got to the Italian border they announced that a new law throughout Italy bans smoking in all public places. It's fine by me, but given how Europeans smoke I can't imagine it's true.

Venice is unbelievably charming -- but internet access is tough to come by. I don't expect to blog again until I get to Florence on Monday at the earliest.

Going to my hotel in Venice in a water taxi.

The water taxi driver said to me, "Your hotel is down that street." The "street" is between the pink and yellow building.

Snow on the ground in the mountains at the Austrian/Italian border

Thank you, JeezBob

Jim Sivesind bought me lunch today (via a Visa gift card he gave me for Christmas) at the Sacher Hotel in Vienna across the street from the Vienna State Opera House.

They are famous for their Sacher Torte which you see above. It's a delicious chocolate cake with a layer of apricot preserves and a dollop of schlag (whipped cream). On the right is Viennese Coffee -- which essentially is a cup of schlag and a splash of coffee.

Lunch was great and in one of the prettiest dining rooms I've ever been in.

After lunch I toured the Vienna State Opera House. It's a beautiful facility that was mostly reconstructed after WWII (the tour guide was quick to point out it suffered from Allied bombing.) The building was originally built in the 1860s -- and I won the quiz when the guide asked us to identify when the Intermission Room was built. The chandeliers gave it away as the 1950s. But she stumped me later by asking us to name the only Opera written by Beethoven (Fidelo). (I may be on vacation, but I'm still competitive.)

Anyway, I really liked Vienna and enjoyed seeing what to me appears to be so much Art Deco architecture.

While I'm thanking folks -- thanks to Jackie Steinman for helping me figure out some problems with my new digital camera. It was only allowing me to take around 10 photos in the lowest resolution. Turns out the manufacturer didn't provide a memory card at all. I got one today which supposedly will allow me to take 500 photos in good resolution. I think that will be plenty.

Tomorrow I'm off on a 6:30 a.m. (ouch) train to Venice. I'm staying in smaller hotels in Italy so I'm not sure what my Internet access will be like. But I'll be blogging as I can.

This is the auditorium of the Vienna State Opera House. The Emperor's Box is in the middle on the second level.

Here I am with the Head Usher of the Vienna State Opera House.

Tonight I went to a bar in Vienna with "the largest mirror in Europe." I found this dog snoring on the bench directly under the mirror. I guess she's seen it before.

Splish Splash

Here I am at the historic Gellert Bath in Budapest. This predecessor to modern day water parks truly is a Turkish Bath. It was built in 1912 on the site of baths built in the 16th century following the Turkish invasion of Hungary. Located over natural hot springs, the water is believed to have healing power. Apparently when you become over 75 years old in Budapest the highlight of your day is swimming in the co-ed pool.

The male-only portion of the Bath is most notable for the "loincloth" (think miniature apron) they give you to wear. A standard issue hospital gown seems like a luxurious robe by comparison. Fortunately about ten percent of the men, including this modest American, ignore tradition and wear regular bathing suits.

Dinner last night was at the Owl's Castle Restaurant which, for Budapest, makes quite a feminist statement by being entirely run by women. They are proud of the fact that women not only cook and serve the food, they even shop for it! Here's how they describe themselves in their advertisement: "Guest are to learn the culinary treks of women in this peculiar atmosphere."

It seemed like a normal Hungarian restaurant to me. Though I've never been accused of being a "lite" eater, my pork cutlets and egg dumplings seemed pretty heavy -- which is Hungarian cuisine's claim to fame..

Today's three-hour train ride to Vienna included a nice surprise. For lunch I was expecting to visit an Amtrak-style lounge car for a sandwich wrapped in plastic and some crisps (as the British and Kelly Presta call potato chips). Instead the train had a full-on dining car where I enjoyed a freshly cooked, excellent lunch.

On the train I was talking to two Americans about my trip. They wanted to know if I'm staying at hostels. That made me feel young!

And here's something you don't see everyday: a woman walking through the train carrying a bow and arrows. Hope she doesn't plan to fly anytime soon.

The co-ed main pool at the Gellert Bath in Budapest

I Feel the Need for Speed

The bullet train to the Shanghai Airport was really fun. Above is a photo of the train's "odometer." 430 kilometers an hour translates to 267 miles an hour. Fast! And it feels like you're going fast. It lasts for about 8 minutes. But it only costs the equivalent of 50 cents.

My Austrian Airlines flight from Shanghai to Vienna (11 1/2 hours) was another beautiful experience. I'm still trying to see all the movies nominated for a Golden Globe. Austrian Air currently shows two nominees (The Motorcycle Diaries and The Manchurian Candidate) on flights going in the opposite direction. But the purser agreed to show them on a special channel just for me. Now that's treatment I could get used to!

I'm Not Your Buddha

Yes, the one performer is walking on the heads of the other performers while keeping her plates spinning.

I went to see the Chinese Acrobats at the Shanghai Grand Theater tonight. It was an interesting show. Very talented performers. Very low production values. My hotel concierge scored me a ticket for Row 1, Seat 1 (on the center aisle). I had an amazing view for every feat. But I also could see every tatter and tear on the costumes. But a memorable evening, nonetheless.

During the day I visited the Yu Yuan Garden -- considered Shanghai's most lovely garden. It was quite something to see. And the hundreds of us crammed in there all got to see it together.

What a difference a day makes! I thought the streets of Shanghai were busy on Saturday and Sunday. Well, Monday brought an explosion of people, cars, motorcyles, scooters, bikes and pedestrians to the streets. It's quite an adventure crossing the street. No such thing as pedestrian right of way. My strategy became to find a group of people and cross with them. At least I'm not going down alone.

And what's this with strangers rubbing my stomach while I'm walking down the street? It happened three different times. Everywhere you go folks are handing out little advertisement cards. They come up real close to you to get you to take it. And a few times while they were trying to give me their ad, they took the opportunity to rub my belly. I could tell from the smile on their faces they thought it was the nicest thing in the world they could do. Well, I'm not your good luck charm walking down the street! Where are the Personal Space Police when you need them?

Tomorrow it's off to Budapest via Vienna.

Sunday in Shanghai

You don't really get a sense of the scope of Shanghai until you look at it from above. Here's the view from the Orient Pearl Tower.

I don't really know what was happening here but it involved a lot of tap dancing. Something else the Chinese can kick our ass in in a few years.

Here's the Orient Pearl Tower. It's supposed to look like a string of pearls. It's across the river from the old part of downtown.