I spent a couple of hours this afternoon at the historic Turkish Bath, the Cemberlitas Hamam. It was built in 1584 by the leading Ottoman architect Minar Sinan.

My bath attendant is on the left and my masseur is on the right.

This was much more pleasant than the hamam in Marrakesh, perhaps in part because I knew what to expect.

At this hamam instead of being on the floor you're on a marble pedestal. The room is very hot, but the source of the heat isn't immediately beneath you -- so it was much more comfortable.

This was a much bigger operation than the one in Marrakesh. There were several men on the same huge washing pedestal. I couldn't get the concept of a human car wash out of my head.

The massage was intense! Really hard pressure and sticking his thumb into my muscles. It was painful at times and he would ask, "too much?" Of course I said, "no." Who's going to admit they can't take it?