And The Band Played On

When I left the Carnaval Ball this morning at Scala Nightclub at 5:15 a.m. the 20-piece Samba Band was still going strong. And so was much of the crowd.

This was the messiest, trashiest party I've been to in a long time. By that I mean empty cups everywhere, don't slip on the spilled drinks on the floor messy. Even the go go dancers had a hard time starting their act because their stands were covered in empty cups and debris. This was a real "skate home on your own sick" kind of an evening. I loved it.

Outside of the club, spectators formed a two block long phalanx (kind of a natural red carpet) that party goers had to walk to get in. The best costumes got a loud and appreciative response from the crowd. I quickly realized that, in my polo shirt and jeans, I had little to impress the masses. So I sort of slunk behind the crowd until I got to some real barriers and then I made my move toward the gangway. I just kept saying to myself, "Keep the train moving. Keep the train moving."

Then in front of the door to the club there was an enormous television platform that everyone going in had to cross. Lights, cameras, reporters everywhere. I joined in with a group of normally dressed people and we made our way across the platform without distracting from the interviews being given by those in fabulous costumes.

Inside the space was large -- it reminded me of the Hollywood Palladium. Two stories, rectangular with a stage along one side. Perfect for promenading in that night's get up.

Some of the costumes were very elaborate. Some basically didn't exist.

After four "gem tonicas" I guess I was as trashed as the nightclub. But it's a night I won't soon forget.

By the way, when I left at 5:15 there was still a crowd of spectators outside. But by then I didn't care what their reactions were.

Tomorrow I'm flying to Iguacu Falls -- an enormous waterfall at the border of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. Eleanor Roosevelt said, "Once you've seen Iguacu Falls, Niagara Falls looks like a drippy faucet." And she was from New York State!

And then it's back to Rio on Friday for the final weekend of my trip. I'll be staying at a different hotel so I don't know what internet access will be like over the next several days. But I'll be blogging as I can.